With the arrival of spring, preparation for climbing Everest is in full swing. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) has stated that an eight-member team of Icefall Doctors has departed for the base camp to establish a safe route for climbers on the world's highest peak.
SPCC Chairman Lama Kaji Sherpa stated that the construction and maintenance of the route in the Khumbu Icefall are being carried out under the committee’s management. Since spring is the most favorable season for mountaineering, the experienced Icefall Doctor team has left Namche with essential equipment and materials to prepare the climbing route.
The team consists of eight experienced Icefall Doctors, excluding base camp manager Tshering Tenzing Sherpa. The other members are Ang Sarki Sherpa, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Dawa Nuru Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa, Mingma Gyaljen Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Lakpa Sonam Sherpa, and Tendu Sherpa.
Since 1997, the Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation has entrusted SPCC with the responsibility of constructing and maintaining the Khumbu Icefall route. Route construction in this area is considered extremely hazardous.
Challenges in the Khumbu Icefall
The Khumbu Icefall is one of the most perilous sections of Everest, with the constant risk of massive ice block collapses and avalanches. The team is responsible for constructing the route up to Camp II, which involves fixing ropes, placing ladders in dangerous sections, and stabilizing unstable ice and snow structures, including ice bridges.
Traditional Methods and Site Inspection
Route construction for Everest climbing follows traditional rituals and site inspections. According to SPCC, a special Buddhist puja is performed before beginning the work, during which local Lamas conduct prayers to seek the blessings of the mountain gods. Chairman Sherpa stated that it is customary to enter the hazardous icefall area only after receiving these blessings.
Before the route is built, a thorough site inspection is conducted using traditional methods to assess safety conditions. This process is believed to ensure the well-being of climbers.
Timeline and Costs
It is estimated that constructing the route to Camp II will take approximately 20 days, though this may be extended if weather conditions deteriorate. Only after the route from base camp to higher camps is completed will professional climbing teams be permitted to ascend.
SPCC charges foreign climbers a fee of $600 each for the construction and maintenance of the climbing route in the Everest region. This fee is used for route construction, maintenance, and environmental cleaning. In addition to verifying climbing permits, SPCC also carries out various environmental protection activities in the base camp area.
The Role of Icefall Doctors
The Icefall Doctors play a crucial role in making Everest expeditions possible by building ice bridges, identifying safe passages, and preparing infrastructure in highly hazardous zones. “Without them, a successful ascent would be unimaginable. We handle all aspects of route construction and maintenance as per our agreement with the Ministry of Tourism. This fee is our primary source of income,” said SPCC Chairman Sherpa.
Surge in Climbing Preparations
With the arrival of spring, preparations for Everest climbing have intensified. Efforts have been made to ensure climbers' convenience and safety, with SPCC also prioritizing environmental protection. While exact figures on the number of climbers this season are unavailable, a large turnout is expected based on previous years’ trends.
“This year, we anticipate a significant number of professional climbing teams. We are making the necessary arrangements for base camp infrastructure and climbers’ safety. Since mountain tourism is vital to Nepal’s economy, we will coordinate with all stakeholders to facilitate safe climbing,” Chairman Sherpa stated.
Similarly, tourism entrepreneur Bal Bahadur Darnal expressed optimism about the season’s success if weather conditions remain favorable. “We expect a large number of climbers this year. We are preparing for safe climbing, environmental protection, and route construction. We are confident that this season will be successful,” he said.
All agencies involved in Everest expeditions are fully prepared. To support climbers, necessary equipment, food supplies, and communication facilities are being provided from base camp to the summit. Local Sherpa guides have received specialized training, and various policies and implementation plans are being introduced for the long-term conservation of the Himalayan environment. -- RSS